Tag Archives: maluku

Bandaneira Sunset over Gunung Api

Return to the Banda Islands

We love the Banda Islands! The beautiful beaches, incredible coral gardens, fascinating history, friendly islanders, great accommodation, and delicious food enticed us to down backpacks for a couple of weeks last year. It is a our perfect tropical paradise in all senses of the phrase. When we were looking for a place to relax for a few weeks this year, there was no competition. We headed back to Banda.

Why go back to the Banda Islands?

We wanted a place that had all the above plus reasonable wifi so that we could work on a few ideas for mobile apps. We had an idea for a new kind of guide book in app form. The Banda Islands were the perfect subject for a prototype. There were several Islands with lots to do but they were small enough that we could do our research quickly. Banda was an up and coming destination which wasn’t covered well by current guides and blogs. So, we knew there would be interest.

It was also a good place for me to push on with with my swimming. The waters were generally safe and calm plus there was the distraction of big fish, turtles, and stupendous … Read more

The sea in front of Putih Lessi Indah

Putih Lessi Indah: A Beach Escape in Saparua

Saparua, one of the Lease Islands in the Maluku region of Indonesia, is unlikely to be a major destination anytime soon. But, it is a fantastic side trip for travelers wanting to extend a Maluku trip beyond the magnificent Banda Islands. There are white sand palm fringed beaches, snorkeling and diving, and divine tropical fruit. And one really awesome budget beach resort – Putih Lessi Indah.

Why visit Maluku?

Maluku is a mystery that slowly unfolds the more you dig around. The area was never well traveled and the sporadic communal violence that broke out in the early noughties killed off travel for all but the hardiest backpacker. The guide books still do not cover the area in detail and even the blogosphere only lightly touches on the region. The area has no functioning tourist office, contacting hotels and beach bungalows is difficult, the electricity supply is sporadic, and the transport situation is extremely changeable. It probably took me more time to figure out the ferry schedule for Saparua than it did to organize three weeks in Philippines!

The upside is that for the time being, there are relatively few tourists in Maluku. … Read more

Ora Beach Bungalows

Way off the beaten track: Pulau Seram

Our visit to Pulau Seram, a rugged island in Indonesia’s Maluku province, was inspired by a photo in an Indonesian airline magazine. The photo was of a row of stilt bungalows on a gorgeous turquoise bay backed by mighty green forested cliffs. The accompanying article was only in Indonesian, but we found the place name, Pantai Ora (Ora Beach) in the caption. A few days and some Google Image searching later, Ora Beach on Pulau Seram in Maluku province was on our bucket list. We were already thinking about a trip to Maluku to see the Banda Islands, and the chance to add a visit to Pulau Seram firmly placed Maluku on our itinerary.

We do a lot of internet research to help us choose destinations, hotels, and things to do. The most striking thing we learned when researching Pulau Seram travel is how little information there is! The available information in English consists of a couple of pages in the Lonely Planet, a thread on the Thorn Tree forum, and a few blog posts. We were a bit worried that Pulau Seram would be an anticlimax after our amazing visit to the Banda Islands, but we were keen … Read more

Pulau Hatta in the Banda Islands

Pulau Hatta: Paradise in the Banda Islands

Everyone knows fishermen exaggerate the size of their catch, but it is a little known fact that novice snorkelers can be a little generous with fish size too. But, really you should have seen the damn size of this enormous Napoleon wrasse. When I first saw him it was at least the size of yours truly. By the end of the week it was of Moby Dick proportions! Maybe I was overcompensating for the fact that Laura had seen a massive school of 50+ hammerheads the day before!

Welcome to Pulau Hatta in the Banda Islands, where the island is tiny but the undersea life is truly gargantuan. It was to be the setting for my first real attempt at snorkeling. And, I am glad I plunged into the briny since Hatta has given us some of the most fantastic experiences of the entire trip.

So, here it is part two of Paul’s conversion to fully-fledged water boy. After my first forays into water in the magnificent Togean Islands, I decided to do an intensive swimming course in Ko Lanta, Thailand while Laura was doing her PADI Open Water diving course. My eventual aim is to do a PADI course … Read more

Sunset gold. Benteng Belgica, Bandaneira.

Snorkel and spice: the Banda Islands

We never had the Banda Islands on our itinerary when we left home. But we kept looking at those pages in the Lonely Planet and heard many good reports from fellow travelers. I am glad we keep our ears and options open, since our finest experiences have been in places that were not entirely on our radar. The Banda Islands are quite possibly the best place we have discovered on this trip. This tiny cluster of islands delivers huge rewards: incredible underwater life, friendly people, volcano views, fascinating history, and idyllic beach huts.

History of the Banda Islands

Old map of the Banda Islands
Old map of the Banda Islands with Gunung Api erupting. Source: Wikimedia Commons

It is amazing to reflect on the fact that these sleepy remote tropical islands were once the epicenter of colonial warring, gross treatment of locals, and an incredibly lucrative trade in highly sought after commodities. Those commodities were, of course, the spices that grew exclusively on the islands. Nutmeg was once more expensive than gold since it was believed to be a cure-all for many a foul affliction including the plague. Britain and Holland clashed for decades over the spice trade and hundreds of locals died as a result. … Read more